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  • 羌族“圍腰”上的圖案有何意義

    四川文明網  2017.05.16
          圍腰的圖案紋樣。羌繡的飾花紋樣主要有滿花、團花、角花、帶花、填花、簇花等幾種。圍腰的胸襟上一般采用滿花紋樣。滿花紋樣充滿整個胸襟多以花卉為主,也可用幾條帶狀紋樣組成滿花紋樣。圍腰半襟上則多采用團花紋樣,團花紋樣在挑花技法中運用廣泛。團花有圓形、橢圓形、四方形、八方形、放射形、菱形等。紋樣均衡、規整、對稱、嚴謹而又富于變化。羌族婦女半襟圍腰的雙包挑花紋樣最為多見;角花紋樣多與團花紋樣一起使用,在圍腰的下方角隅部分,多呈三角形,角花與團花相輔相成、相得益彰。

      圍腰的紋樣色彩。半襟和滿襟圍腰主要采用素色為主,以天藍色或者黑色為地色,以白線挑花和勾花,圖案色彩非常講究黑白灰處理得當,圖案與色彩主次分明,給人以端莊高雅的感覺。彩色圖案則色彩明艷絢麗,使用色彩大膽對比強烈,不使用漸變色,具有濃郁奔放的本民族特色。圍腰上的色彩大膽跳躍,對整套服飾有著輝映突出的作用成為羌族服飾下半身乃至全身的重點。

      羌族服飾的原料。羌族紡織自古就有,以麻和棉為原料。羌族無論男女老少都喜歡穿自家編織的麻布或棉布長衫。圍腰則主要采用麻布和棉布為材料。而隨著社會和經濟的發展現代羌族服飾的原料多為現代成品衣料,如購買的棉布、綢緞、化纖、呢料等。穿著起來更加貼身舒適。

      圍腰紋樣的文化內涵。羌族服飾作為一種服飾民俗,是社會物質生產的產物,也是社會觀念的承載體。圍腰紋樣的題材多以自然景物比如花草蟲魚為主反應了羌族人民的自然崇拜、圖騰崇拜和萬物有靈理論,也體現了羌族人民追求與自然和諧相處的天人和諧的理念。

      紋樣題材的寓意反映出了羌族人民趨吉避兇的心理趨勢,從一個側面表現了羌族人民適應自然社會的能力。羌族服飾圍腰的大膽鮮明的色彩則反映了羌族人民在長期與自然環境接觸的過程中形成了獨特鮮明的審美情趣從而也反映了羌族人民熱愛自然崇尚自然的觀念。羌族服飾以其獨具一格的魅力從眾多民族服飾中脫穎而出代表了羌族人民鮮明的民族文化和信仰,是民族服飾中的一朵奇葩。

      羌族服飾藝術是我國民族服飾中的一個鮮明的代表,它有著精湛的技法、獨特的審美和文化內涵,對我們進一步了解和研究羌族服飾藝術和文化都有著積極地作用。民族的就是世界的,我們要為不斷傳承和發展民族的服飾文化而努力。

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